Reassembly | nyc-modeling

"How to" Series

Step 25 - Modifying rear hood

Step 25 - Rear hood modified

Step 26 - Checking for clearance

Step 27 - Installing cab onto shell

Step 27 - Cab & shell in place

SW1 - Front view

SW1 - Rear view

Back

Modifying the hood/Reassembly: Steps 25 - 27

Hood modification

Step 25 - Carefully remove ~1/8" of material from the rear end of the hood using a #11 X-acto blade and flat file; being sure not to take off too much, as this locks the hood to the cab when assembled.

NOTE: If you choose to use the Lenz Silver MP decoder, you will need to modify the rear end of the hood slightly (the end that inserts into the cab opening) in order to have enough proper clearance for all the wiring entering and exiting the cab area. Otherwise, skip to Step 26.

Checking for proper clearance of wires and decoder

Step 26 - Insert the front tab of the hood into the slot in the chassis and test fit the modifciations for proper clearance with the decoder and decoder wires. Readjust any wires or remove any additional material from the rear end of the hood, if needed.

NOTE: Upgraded rear U-joint visible in pictures at left is installed incorrectly. Do NOT use it as a reference!

Installing the cab

Step 27 - Once everything fits properly, lower the cab so that it straddles the hood and snaps into place; being sure to check that no wires are being pinched in the process. Use a small flat-headed screwdriver to aid in guiding the tab at the rear of the cab into the slot in the chassis.

If you checked everything properly before reassembly, you have now successfully converted your Walthers SW1 to DCC. Congratulations!

Additional maintenance and upgrade options for your SW1 can be found here.